So, Friday, we ended up going to three different locations, clustered close together - Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwick Castle and Coventry. Hopefully I'll be able to fit a brief description of all three places in one post... But we'll just have to see how it goes.
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| King Edward VI School |
Stratford-upon-Avon: In case you don't know, this is where Shakespeare grew up (hence the name of the post). Many interesting buildings date back to the medieval period, as this is when Stratford was developed as a town. In fact, 1196 is when Stratford became an official town. Shakespeare was baptised at the Holy Trinity Church in 1564. In his 20s, he moved to London to act and write plays. He moved back to Stratford in 1613 and died a few years later. He is now buried in the Holy Trinity Church as well (you can visit his burial place for
£2, which we didn't do). It's a nice little church, which Shakespeare would have visited while growing up in Stratford. Aside from the church, you can visit many places that Shakespeare would have lived or visited such as his birthplace, the house where his wife's family lived (Anne Hathaway's Cottage), his daughter's house (Hall's Croft) and various buildings that belonged to his mom and dad's families. You can also see King Edward VI School, which is most likely where he would have gone to school. Stratford is another town with many festivals, so keep an eye out if you are planning a visit.
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| Shakespeare's birthplace |
It was very exciting, as an English major especially, to visit the bard's hometown, even though it was another rainy day. However, we opted out of buying tickets to go inside the buildings. I'm sure it's all very interesting, but the tickets are on the pricey side - around £23 for access to five buildings (Anne Hathaway's Cottage, Hall's Croft, Harvard House, Mary Arden's Farm, Shakespeare's Birthplace and Shakespeare's Grave) and prices vary for visits to individual buildings. Personally, I think it would probably be worth it on a warm, sunny day - a day when you are willing to walk from place to place as there can be about 15-20 minute walk between different places; it wasn't very enticing on a cold, rainy day with a limited time. As we were getting ready to leave, the sun came out. Though it didn't get any warmer, my dad insisted on getting the quintessential vanilla ice cream with a flake in it :) To be fair, they were being sold from boats on the River Avon, which was kind of cool. Then we headed off.
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| Sunny late afternoon at Warwick Castle |
Warwick Castle: Warwick (pronounced worr-ik) Castle is only about a 20 minute drive from Stratford. The castle is currently owned by the Tussauds Group, a group who owns tourist attractions and amusement parks around England and one or two in Europe (think Alton Towers, Madame Tussauds Wax Museum, Legoland etc). Prior to being turned into a tourist attraction by the Tussauds Group, the castle was actually a country home to the Greville Family, Earls of Warwick, from about 1604 until 1978. However, as a country home, the castle was already open to the public on and off, bringing in tourists to support the local economy. If we go back even further, the castle started out as a fortified settlement in 914 but, in 1068, William the Conqueror had conquered the Midlands. In order to hold the Midlands while he moved north, he built a castle at this spot. The style of castle he built required an additional mound to be constructed and the castle to be situated on top of the mound. The mound is called Ethelfleda's Mound. When the castle was taken over by King Henry II in 1153, he replaced William the Conqueror's castle with a larger stone castle. Throughout the centuries, the castle grew larger and the fortifications stronger.
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| View from a tower (Caesar Tower I think) |
These days, the castle is uniquely a tourist attraction and it shows: colourful signs, games for which they shamelessly demand you pay extra and flashy shows. However, if you turn a blind eye to the touristiness, the castle is very beautiful and it is huge. We walked around the towers and ramparts, up Ethelfleda's Mound, around the gaol and into the wax museum area. The wax museum is set up as a Victorian party, decorated with furniture and wax people. There are recordings playing, as if the people are talking about a party that is going to be happening in the evening. The set up of the wax museum was very well done, to the point where I felt uncomfortable at first - as if I actually was crashing a Victorian party and intruding into somebody's home.
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| Ethelfleda's Mound |
Pricing tip: if you are not interested in the shows, arriving about an hour and a half before closing time gets you a half price ticket. I couldn't find online exactly when the half price deal starts, but it's definitely worth the slightly quicker visit for the cheaper price. In my opinion, the entrance fee is overpriced - though the castle is beautiful. It's around £25 for adults and not much less for children and seniors. Many online reviews say the same thing - nice castle, but too expensive. If you are planning to go earlier in the day, try to at least book online as the online prices are cheaper. Click here to get to the pricing page.
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| The hollow inside of the old Coventry Cathedral |
Coventry Cathedral: Since Coventry is only 15 minutes from Warwick Castle and the sun was still shining, we decided to pay the cathedral a quick visit - though we were getting tired from all the touring. Actually, Coventry has three Cathedrals, but we went to see the old St. Michael's Cathedral which is commonly referred to as Coventry Cathedral. It is a cathedral that was built in the 14th century, but, during the Second World War, was mostly destroyed in the Coventry Blitz. It is an now an open shell of the cathedral, with the tower and spire the only part of the building still in tact. It is a beautiful building, but a grim reminder of the damage of war. The spire itself is awe-inspiring and is actually the third tallest spire in England. As you drive into Coventry, you will run into mostly newer buildings - probably because all the older buildings were destroyed during the blitz. But as you approach the cathedral, you might start noticing the spire against the sky. Then, all of a sudden, you turn down a street and you are among medieval buildings with an open cathedral in the middle. Unfortunately, we arrived late, so we couldn't go inside the walls of the cathedral, but the entrances are blocked only by gates, meaning you can still have a look inside even if you can't walk inside.
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| The spire and tower |
A few interesting facts about Coventry:
- It was officially the capital of England on and off through the 15th century.
- There may have been a settlement in this area since the Bronze age - a couple thousand years B.C.
- In 1043, Leofric, Earl of Mercia and his famous wife, Lady Godiva, founded a Benedictine nunnery in Coventry. Lady Godiva, legend has it, rode naked on a horse through the streets of Coventry to oppose a taxation law put in place by her husband.
After a quick visit around the cathedral, we grabbed a coffee from Starbucks and headed home for a tired night in.
I did it! I fit all three locations into one post! Though it may be on the long side. Hope you learned something and enjoyed reading about these historic areas in the West Midlands. These areas are definitely worth the visit, despite the heavy tourism. In my opinion, the tourism is mainly due to the fact that these areas ARE worth visiting and that they are within day-trip distance of London. Plus they give you a good feel for medieval architecture and life, especially if you can ignore some of the flashiness (especially at Stratford and Warwick).
Hopefully this weekend I'll finish up my posts following my day trip adventures from last week, but I have another trip planned for tomorrow already, so bear with me!
Until next time...
xox
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